To Baddeck in the Rain

Breakfast report: what breakfast? When we bolted from the Comfort Inn syndrome we left those niceties behind. We were expected to dine in a proper dining room at the Loyalist Inn…and not before 7:00 AM. Donut shops were up and atta em – so we partook. “Do you want breakfast”, the bright and cheerful clerk asked. “Yes- what do you have?”

“We have – donuts, 16 varieties, flat ones too, and muffins, 9 types, and biscuits and toast – whatever you want.” We had eggs in mind – but then remembered we were in Canada.

This is the kind of day that creates anxiety in travelers. It rained…a lot.

The glorious landscapes and sights were muted. The before-the- real-deluge drive to Charlottetown was beautiful – green rolling hills, potato fields, tidy farms…we bought PEI new potatoes, hoping FDA won’t object. Counted Acadian stars and maple leaf flags. Charlottetown is lovely - every person we passed as we walked around had something to say – often “Isn’t this a beautiful day”…which it was at that point. There is a shade of blue I saw there that is incredible – maybe marine blue could be a name for it, and I amy have seen it in Maine –but, to me, it is now Charlottetown blue.

Rushing to the ferry, we were sure there would be a lobster salad sandwich place on the route – but no, only the cafeteria at the boarding area., where I saw Fries with Everything carried off to the picnic table. A very big pile of fries, with gravy and something chunky and topped with peas – yes – green peas. Cringe-inducing. I think only people with eating disorders, or people too dumb to think things through would partake of ferry terminal food.... but there we were. My perfectly good-looking plate of fish and chips was pretty tasteless...and the peas!!!!! - nothing like my gold standard in St. Stephens.

We crossed the channel and then the rain came down. We went back to Anne Shirley, of Green Gables – her spunk and sunshine appreciated. The CBC was droning on about MPs fixing tickets and health care woes – and I wanted to be uplifted by Canadian politicians.

Then Baddeck, the starting point for the Cabot Trail – many inns – we went budget, Victorian budget on the first round – ok – perfumed mustiness, but the real problem was lack of wi-fi signal. We visited 2 more – no rooms , and I was getting tired of that curtained Victorian and Colonial excess. Then, beginning to get worried, we found a lodge version of inn – with great beamed public and dining area – with live Celtic folk songs and the evening looked rosier. I had to cut off a couple of mortorcyclists rushing to get to the front desk, and I think they got the last queen bed. Food was pretty good – Jost a very decent Nova Scotia wine label. This a Scottish area – Alexander Graham Bell, a Scot, preferred to live here as it reminded him of home – and his ancestors still inhabit the family property.

Canadian TV : the weather channel

Taking the Canadian pulse: they do like their French fries and Victorian/colonial decorating.

NOT recommended

When there's a will, there is a way - Charlottetown

Ultimate Fish & Chips

Day 2 – Ellsworth, Maine to Summerside, PEI

Breakfast Report: the Lucerne Inn did beat the Comfort Inn standard – but not by a lot – certainly prettier table and nice fruit. But I’m not sure about the cup and saucer coffee delivery system – they didn’t hold much coffee and I think I’ve lost the ability to balance a cup on a saucer.

Maine coastline is beautiful – seemed a shame to be rushing along… we cut north through wild blueberry country , finding many reminders that we were in moose country. We crossed the border into St. Stephens, New Brunswick –and ran across the highlight of the day. …a fish and chips shack on Main Street.

So now I will swoon – especially over the French Fries, better than anything in recent memory. They were sweet-tasting and nicely browned without an off-oil taste – tho they were a bit greasy. They were not large potatoes as the bits were small – and I will guess that they were local potatoes. The fish was haddock – moist with a crunchy exterior. The Kraft tarter sauce, was slightly yellow in color – and after tasting, I think there was a bit of mustard in it – nicely different. We couldn’t finish our fries.... The Poutine fries are mixed with cheese curds and topped with gravy. The waitress rolled her eyes and with an emotional catch in her voice, said “delicious.” I’m not so sure ...

And still on the subject of potatoes – McCains of New Brunswick, according to AAA – “is reportedly the world’s largest producer of French Fries.” But I think I should check with ConAgra. At the factory they have a café – serving potato dishes of all kinds – with 4 gourmet versions of French Fries – we dearly wanted to check it out, but seemed too big a diversion.

Rushing thru New Brunswick as well. We went into St Johns, around a few blocks, but decided not to tarry. It seems like a lively town and very pretty. Huge cruise ship docked as they have a grand harbor.

We also bypassed Moncton as too big and we weren’t ready to stop for night. This is Acadian country, and a little French food would be a nice thing – many French placenames - and we went to a coastal town north of there for gas and found French flags flying , immaculate houses with perfect lawns, luscious flowers, schoolbuses labeled “Ecole,” and a café, Chez Colette.

We took the very long causeway across to Prince Edward Island and Summerside. The water on this side of the island, is “the warmest water north of Virginia”, we heard on a Canadian info station. Summerside a modest town in every way, but some chateauesque touches to some of the houses . We checked out all the restaurants we could find – slim pickings. Good creamy seafood stew at Gentleman Jim’s but wouldn’t recommend anything else. Maybe Mi Ching on Main Street was the way to go.

Almost There

Late start, so still in Maine – heading for Ellsworth, near Bar Harbor, an array of motels there – none exciting-sounding – and passed a country inn that seemed like a fitting gateway to Nova Scotia. Lucerne Inn in Dedham , overlooking a lake. Not quite Switzerland, but certainly not the Cape. Old building, originally a stagecoach stop and evolved from there. We’re passing on the earlybird special dinner to sit in the cozy bar and compute and watch the Red Sox game (it is getting crucial you know.) Lots and lots of traffic – you know you are not in the West. I am sure we don’t want to be in this part of the world in the winter.

I-pod died again – I think it is need of R & R. NPR with us for awhile ( good program segment on Muslims talking about Ramadan and the spiritual aspect of the religion) So then we started in on the CDs – Linda Whitelaw ? Reading her book on Maine fishing stories was sort of draggy, I think some books are better read than listened to. Then we tried David Sedaris – mildly amusing - ditto. Then we went to Anne of Green Gables – it may be a children’s story, but it is read with gusto and we are loving it. Hoping the CBC will offer up something relevant.

Dinner in the Inn pub – feeling very English – informal yet elegant – white tablecloths. Light dining - Good haddock chowder – with a mystery spice/herb that I couldn’t identify – maybe a lemon thyme – more perfumey than pungent. Then a lobster salad – a good nearly half stalk of romaine, lightly grilled., slightly charred – a nice flavor dimension - and a nest of lobster meat in a creamy, lightly garlicked dressing…subtle and nice.

And I dribbled a small spot onto my …black t-shirt….no tragedy. I made a vow – to travel in black and I am trying to carry through on this. I went to Wal-Mart (on a Saturday – not recommended – what hollow do these people come from??? The whole store had a bad vibe) and bought 2 black knit shirts - $8 and $10 – added one from my closet – so am travelling with 3 black t-shirts and 2 black pairs of pants…and a couple of jackets. Talk about liberating…..

And tomorrow - we go foreign…..

Taking the pulse of America - a pulse of a different America

No TV - just jazz and Red Sox games sotto voce

Fish Preparations (mllg)

Yesterday Jimmy and I cooked 2 striped bass we caught caked in salt (5 pounds of kosher salt), according to a Molto Mario recipe we watched on TV. Jimmy prepared the egg whites, poured them into the salt and i laid out 2, 16" striped bass on a platter (head and all). we caked the salt over the whole fish and baked for 30 minutes at 450 degrees. Wonderful, moist, flavorful.

pics are in Jimmy's camera, will post later

Our other fish prep meal was breakfast. We put a Waquoit Bay oyster Jimmy brought over into scrambled eggs for breakfast. Great!

we are now ready for whatever fish the Canadians can throw at us. Hopefully oysters, scallops, fish and chips and lobster.

Back in Time

A friend who was just there said "it's like being back in the 1950's" - slow-paced, friendly, scenic, even dramatically scenic, with nice laundry, the freshest of seafood..... and with lots of inns, cottages and B & Bs - so maybe there will be no complaining about chain motels. Departure date - September 15th - no real plan...only to listen to Anne of Green Gables...and explore.